EGYPTIAN SPLENDOR
Globus tour QE 10 days
October 7-15, 2005
October 7-15, 2005
Day 3: Memphis, Sakkara and the Pyramids at Giza
After a nice breakfast, we gathered around the Mena House pool and met our tour companions. There were only 15 participants on this tour, so it had a nice friendly feeling and our great guide Ahmed was able to improvise and take us some special places that a larger group might have missed.
The first stop was, fittingly, the oldest pyramid in Egypt, designed by the great architect Imhotep for Pharoah Djoser. The step pyramid at Sakkara was the first attempt to build a "stairway to heaven" for a pharoah. This was also my opportunity for a picture on a camel. In keeping with tradition, the camel driver did me out of a few bucks. I offered him LE10, Egyptian pounds and worth about $2. However, after the picture, he said "No, No, American" so I handed him US$10 instead! Believe me, the unforgettable opportunity to have that picture was worth the extra $8 any day! But, those people who feel cheated if a poor Egyptian gets an extra little bit from them can take warning.
The next stop was the ancient capital of Memphis. Very little remains, but the beautiful Alabaster Sphinx, and the famous fallen statue of Rameses III. Renée was definitely dwarfed standing next to it.
We got back on the bus and through the palm lined countryside and into the city. Our driver was excellent. The bus drivers in Egypt keep coolers of bottled water in the bus and sell it for LE5, or $1 for two bottles. It is a great convenience.
We drove back into the city of Giza, and were amazed to see that, contrary to my belief, the pyramids are actually right in the city. They are completely surrounded on three sides by city traffic and businesses. I guess the fourth side is left open to the desert in order to provide a place for photographers to take their pictures, making the Giza plateau seem as if it is miles from anything!
Here we are standing in front of the pyramids with Ahmed. We had plenty of time to visit, and some members of our party descended into the bowels of the pyramids. They reported it was tough going, in some places stooped over into three foot high passages, and with many ramps and steps.
Only close up can the massive scale of the blocks in the pyramids be appreciated. Ahmed said that calculations have shown that in order to keep to schedule, a block had to be put in place every six minutes for 20 years! Building the pyramids was not only an amazing engineering feet, but the equally amazing administrative task of organizing labor, food, materials and all the thousands of details of a project of this size.
The guys in the white uniforms are the ever-present Tourist Police. Having them around with machine pistols and AK-47s to protect every tourist site gave a nice feeling of confidence. However, these two seemed to have plenty of time to pose for a picture, and then of course hold out their hands for "baksheesh"!
Here Renée had her chance to ride a camel. Our guides made the arrangements, and settled on a price, considerably less than I had paid at Sakkara. It is usually wise to let the guides negotiate for you, but not near as much fun. Gentlemen, contemplate the prospect of seeing your spouse mount a camel and then disappear off into the desert!
In fact, however, the camels only carried our tourists down to the next pyramid, where the bus met them. Amazingly Renée reported her driver did NOT demand "baksheesh", but did politely tell her that she could tip if she wanted to, which she willingly did. What kind of a tip can you count for the experience of a lifetime?
Lunch was at a marvelous buffet recommended by Ahmed, actually in the shadow of the Great Pyramid and right next to the Sphinx. What luncheon companions they are!
Here we are, standing in the spot so many tourists have stood before us. In fact, there was a young man standing around showing people exactly where to stand for the best shot - for baksheesh, of course. Anyone traveling to Egypt has to be aware that the poverty is extreme, and any chance to make a buck off a tourist is going to be taken. Early on, you have to learn a firm "NO" and just keep repeating it again and again. The vendors are not allowed actually in the monument areas, but there are hordes of them surrounding every site. Accepting them as simply part of the ambiance of the country is the wisest course.
My DW bought me this Arab headdress for LE5, that is $1. I draped it over my head and looked sufficiently foolish, I guess. This little girl was standing in the hot sun selling bookmarks for a pittance, and she saw me and smilingly shook her head and waggled a finger at me. I bent down and she showed me how to fold the headdress properly and tuck the sides up to look like a proper Arab gentleman. Of course then I had to spend $1 to buy some bookmarks from her. It was all a charming experience, and she was a beautiful girl, except for the saddening thought that the child should have been in school instead of out selling trinkets to tourists.
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| After a nice breakfast, we gathered around the Mena House pool and met our tour companions. There were only 15 participants on this tour, so it had a nice friendly feeling and our great guide Ahmed was able to improvise and take us some special places that a larger group might have missed. | The first stop was, fittingly, the oldest pyramid in Egypt, designed by the great architect Imhotep for Pharoah Djoser. The step pyramid at Sakkara was the first attempt to build a "stairway to heaven" for a pharoah. This was also my opportunity for a picture on a camel. In keeping with tradition, the camel driver did me out of a few bucks. I offered him LE10, Egyptian pounds and worth about $2. However, after the picture, he said "No, No, American" so I handed him US$10 instead! Believe me, the unforgettable opportunity to have that picture was worth the extra $8 any day! But, those people who feel cheated if a poor Egyptian gets an extra little bit from them can take warning.
| The next stop was the ancient capital of Memphis. Very little remains, but the beautiful Alabaster Sphinx, and the famous fallen statue of Rameses III. Renée was definitely dwarfed standing next to it.
| We got back on the bus and through the palm lined countryside and into the city. Our driver was excellent. The bus drivers in Egypt keep coolers of bottled water in the bus and sell it for LE5, or $1 for two bottles. It is a great convenience.
| We drove back into the city of Giza, and were amazed to see that, contrary to my belief, the pyramids are actually right in the city. They are completely surrounded on three sides by city traffic and businesses. I guess the fourth side is left open to the desert in order to provide a place for photographers to take their pictures, making the Giza plateau seem as if it is miles from anything!
| Here we are standing in front of the pyramids with Ahmed. We had plenty of time to visit, and some members of our party descended into the bowels of the pyramids. They reported it was tough going, in some places stooped over into three foot high passages, and with many ramps and steps.
| Only close up can the massive scale of the blocks in the pyramids be appreciated. Ahmed said that calculations have shown that in order to keep to schedule, a block had to be put in place every six minutes for 20 years! Building the pyramids was not only an amazing engineering feet, but the equally amazing administrative task of organizing labor, food, materials and all the thousands of details of a project of this size.
| The guys in the white uniforms are the ever-present Tourist Police. Having them around with machine pistols and AK-47s to protect every tourist site gave a nice feeling of confidence. However, these two seemed to have plenty of time to pose for a picture, and then of course hold out their hands for "baksheesh"! Here Renée had her chance to ride a camel. Our guides made the arrangements, and settled on a price, considerably less than I had paid at Sakkara. It is usually wise to let the guides negotiate for you, but not near as much fun. Gentlemen, contemplate the prospect of seeing your spouse mount a camel and then disappear off into the desert!
| In fact, however, the camels only carried our tourists down to the next pyramid, where the bus met them. Amazingly Renée reported her driver did NOT demand "baksheesh", but did politely tell her that she could tip if she wanted to, which she willingly did. What kind of a tip can you count for the experience of a lifetime?
| Lunch was at a marvelous buffet recommended by Ahmed, actually in the shadow of the Great Pyramid and right next to the Sphinx. What luncheon companions they are!
| Here we are, standing in the spot so many tourists have stood before us. In fact, there was a young man standing around showing people exactly where to stand for the best shot - for baksheesh, of course. Anyone traveling to Egypt has to be aware that the poverty is extreme, and any chance to make a buck off a tourist is going to be taken. Early on, you have to learn a firm "NO" and just keep repeating it again and again. The vendors are not allowed actually in the monument areas, but there are hordes of them surrounding every site. Accepting them as simply part of the ambiance of the country is the wisest course.
| My DW bought me this Arab headdress for LE5, that is $1. I draped it over my head and looked sufficiently foolish, I guess. This little girl was standing in the hot sun selling bookmarks for a pittance, and she saw me and smilingly shook her head and waggled a finger at me. I bent down and she showed me how to fold the headdress properly and tuck the sides up to look like a proper Arab gentleman. Of course then I had to spend $1 to buy some bookmarks from her. It was all a charming experience, and she was a beautiful girl, except for the saddening thought that the child should have been in school instead of out selling trinkets to tourists.
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