Mike and Renée
Cruise to the Black Sea
On HAL Prinsendam
September 2009

Page One covers the Mediterranean portion: pre-cruise in Rome; Katakalon and Olympia, Greece; and Istanbul, Turkey.

Page Two covers the Black Sea portion of the cruise: Sochi, Russia; Batumi, Georgia; Trabzon and Sinop, Turkey; Sevastopol, Ukraine; returning via Kusadasi to Athens

This page is our post cruise tour of Northern Greece: Athens, Thermopylae, Vale of Tempe, Dion, Mt Olympus, Tessaloniki, Pella, Vergina, Chaironea and Delphi.

Upon disembarking we were met by our marvelous driver, Nick from GreekTaxi.gr, who had also been with us in Nafplion. He was a great driver and worked with us to plan out the perfect tour. Although he is not a licensed guide and could not take us into the actual sites, he is a wealth of information about ancient as well as modern Greece and taught us a great deal.

As we had visited Athens twice before, we did not again repeat the Antiquities Promenade or climb the Acropolis. New since our last visit was the Museum of the Acropolis. This beautiful building sits at the foot of the Acropolis and is faced with glass panels that reflect back the wondrous beauty of the Parthenon.

As happens so often in Greece, as construction began for the building they discovered wonderfully preserved ancient ruins beneath it. So archaeological work goes on even as the building is opened to the public.

This is a stunning beautiful museum, spacious and light, with so many magnificent works of art and archaeological objects in it. The top floor is dedicated to a re-creation of the decorative art from the Parthenon. First is the frieze running all around the building, depicting in low relief a votive procession, with maidens on foot, horsemen, baskets of offerings, bulls and rams for sacrifice and all the panoply of a great celebration. The next row is the metopes, panels in high relief depicting scenes from mythology such as the battle of the Lapiths and Kentaurs.

Finally is the space reserved for the magnificent full round statues of the pediments. Sadly only a few pieces are on display as the majority of the works were taken from Greece in the 1800s and are now in the British Museum, which claims ownership based on doubtful positions. Anyone who has seen this marvelous display at the foot of the actual Acropolis can have no doubt that, despite the British claims, the marbles belong here in their proper place as part of the World's Heritage.

Then we began our drive North through scenic and historic parts of Greece. Following a good highway we came soon to the pass of Thermopylae, where a great statue honors Leonidas, King of Sparta, and the 300 brave warriors who held off a massive Persian army at this narrow place.
Continuing North we came to the village of Dion, and passed under the looming presence of Mount Olympus with its head covered with clouds.
We arrived at the city of Thessaloniki for our overnight stay. In the morning we toured the city, both main drag and the narrow winding back lanes. The tall White Tower is a landmark of Thessaloniki.
A pleasant drive through winding roads in rich agricultural country brought us to the city of Pella, ancient capital of Macedonia, famed for its wonderful mosaics.
One of the most magnificent mosaics depicts "The Rape of Helen" with Paris in his great chariot carrying the famed beauty away.
Then we drove on to Edessa, a seldom visited site but very interesting. The clay storage jugs buried in the floor of some of the houses can still be seen, and this pillar erected in the agora (market) by freed slaves thanking the gods.
Edessa is known as the City of Water for its beautiful waterfalls, fountains and water features. We stopped at the Cataracts to walk down to the waterfall and other tumbling waters. It was pleasant to hear the tinkling of the water as we sat under a large sycamore tree and had our lunch.
We then drove on to the Academy of Aristotle. The Museum was closed, but the statue in the courtyard was impressive.
We were able to walk the actual grounds of the Academy. It was inspiring to visualize the great philosopher wandering these grounds, teaching the young Alexander and his companions by the famous Socratic method of disputation.
Then we proceeded to the city of Vergina, ancient capital of Macedonia, birthplace of Alexander the Great, and the site of the incredible museum of the Royal Tombs. This amazing museum actually has been dug into the tumulus, or artificial mound, raised over the burials. It contains four royal tombs, and displays all the grave goods that accompanied the royal dead on their journey to the after world. The most important tomb has been identified as that of Phillip II of Macedonia, father of Alexander the Great. History records that Alexander gave his father the most impressive and expensive funeral ever known in the ancient western world.
The museum contains three wreaths of solid gold, one for Phillip, one for his favorite wife and one for Alexander IV, son of Alexander the Great. The bones remaining after the cremation of Phillip and the Queen were placed in solid gold laranxes, or chests, bearing the many rayed sun which is the emblem of royal Macedonians. The displays range from the chryselephantine (gold and ivory) shield of Phillip, to the iron nails which held the funeral pyre together. The location and layout of the museum actually inside the tumulus are extremely impressive. It was the climax of our trip to Northern Greece!
We stayed in Vergina at the beautiful Hotel Aigon, a small family operated hotel bearing the ancient name of the city. It was a delight to enjoy the balcony and walk the streets of the small village to a neighborhood taverna for our dinner.
We then began our drive South, at first on the same highway. This time mighty Mount Olympus emerged from the clouds to stand in all its glory above us.
The drive continued through the Vale of Tempe, a deep gorge between the mountings, considered by the ancients to be the most beautiful spot in Greece. We then turned off the highway to follow a narrow winding road between the olive groves and over Mount Parnassos to Delphi.
Our driver Nick was a delight as he helped us plan our day for the most effective use of time and the most impressive tour of this famous place.

Delphi was one of the most important religious centers of the ancient world, as rulers and cities from the entire known world sent their embassies to inquire of the Pythia, priestess of Apollo, for her divinations. Approaching the site, the awesome cliffs of the Phaedriades, the Shining Cliffs, loom up. At noon these cliffs catch and reflect the light of the sun in an amazing display. The left cliff, known as Hyampeia, was the cliff from which blasphemers were thrown in ancient times. These cliffs guard the hillside where the Sanctuary of Apollo stood.

After seeing the noontime display at the Shining Cliffs we took a break at a delightful taverna in the town of Delphi, with a marvelous view over the entire valley as we ate.

Then we began our visit at the museum of the site. This is a very well done museum with many impressive finds from the excavations. This sphinx originally stood high atop a column of the Ionic order as can be seen from the typical scrollwork of the capital.
These are the remaining pieces of a huge silver and gilt bull which stood on a platform near the Temple of Apollo.
The Greek myth says that Zeus released two eagles to fly around the world, and that they met at Delphi. The spot of meeting was marked by the Omphalos, or navel stone of the world.
Then we began the climb up the imposing hill of the Sanctuary itself. Every major city of the ancient world had a treasury on the ascent, where they displayed the most beautiful and expensive gifts they had made to the god. The museum contains a few samples of the intricate gold work, ivory and bronze figures, and votive weapons that were stored in the treasuries. The Treasury of Athens is the only one which has been restored, and it is easy to visualize the porch and surroundings filled with the magnificent goods given to the god.
Just below the actual Temple is the Rock of the Sybil, from which tradition says the Pythia, or priestess, gave her cryptic prophecies. Every city of Greece sent embassies to inquire of the Pythia before beginning any important undertaking. Colonies would not be begun without a good prophecy from Apollo, which is why there are many cities named Apollonia. Kings going forth to war would wait for a favorable oracle from Delphi before beginning their campaigns. However, the equivocal nature of the prophecies was legend and many plans went awry because of misinterpretation of the Sybil's message.
Finallty, after the long and arduous climb, we were rewarded with arriving at the Temple of Apollo. At the time we were there a rockslide had closed the path higher up, so we did not get to the theater or stadium. (We probably would not have made the further climb in any case as it is a long trip.) Although only a few pillars remain of the magnificent temple, there can be no question that the ancients identified the place of power inhabited by the god. He can be felt looming over the site in full glory.

We returned to the Hotel Varonos, and had a very nice dinner at To Patriko Mas restaurant, watching a beautiful sunset over the plain and bay below.

Then we set off on our final day of touring. As always, we consulted with Nick and he listened carefully to what our priorities were and then made suggestions which resulted in a delightful day well spent. Traveling from Delphi to Athens, we stopped at the Lion of Chaeroneia. Rediscovered in the 19th century and expertly restored from the fragments, this is the magnificent memorial erected by the city of Thebes to the memory of the brave warriors of the Sacred Band, who died to a man in the famous battle of 338 BC. Phillip II of Macedon was their formidable opponent, and the cavalry charge against them was led by his 18 year old son Alexander, later "the Great." It was this battle in which Alexander first gained his reputation as a general of great skill.
Most tourist buses, it seems, simply stop at the lion for a picture and then go on their way, missing the little gem of a museum at the site. The curator was delighted to see us, and extended great hospitality as we viewed the exhibits.
The museum covers all periods of local history, from Neolithic times to the famous battle to the retirement of Plutarch to this, his native town, to write his histories. This display of stone loom weights rivals anything I have seen in any museum anyplace.
One of the most fascinating displays is of the weapons recovered from the mass grave of the Macedonian soldiers killed here, cremated on a huge pyre after parades, races and offerings in the epic tradition.
Then it was on to Athens. Nick drove us to the top of Lycabettos Hill for this magnificent panoramic view of Athens old and new. From here we could see the Parthenon in all its glory standing on top of the Acropolis, along with the Erechthion. Also visible was the massive rock formation known as the Aeropagus, or Mars Hill. Far below was the Temple of Hephastion which stands over the Ancient Agora. Truly the view from this spot was wonderful to see.
Even in the midst of ancient splendors, we must be fed. Nick took us to a small out-of-the-way restaurant which specialized in the real gyros, not the pale substitutes we find at home. Actually the "gyros" refers to the towers of meat, either chicken or pork, which are slowly cooked from the outside in and sliced off as needed to put on flatbread with tomatoes, onions and that wonderful sauce.
Then it was off to the final stop of our tour, the National Archaeological Museum. This world famous museum covers all periods of Greek history from neolithic times to the Romans, with a little bit of Egypt thrown in for good measure. It houses a wonderful but almost overwhelming assortment of staturary, bronzes, vases, and other artifacts.
This magnificent bronze horse and rider is only one example of the many displays.
Here is a delightful marble statue of Aphrodite, protected by Eros, pursued by Pan. In her maidenly virtue, she brandishes a sandal to dissuade his advances.
The masterpiece of the museum is the large and varied collection of gold items from Mycenae, truly as it was described by Homer, "rich in gold." From the port of Nafplion we had visited the citadel of Mycenae itself so the items here were especially interesting. The most famous is the gold death mask, commonly known as "the mask of Agamemnon," although actually it has been dated to 400 years before that great king sent the fleets off to the Trojan War.

From beginning to end, this was a marvelous cruise and tour. We saw many interesting places on the cruise and finished with my dream trip to the ancient sites.

We like to discuss our travels. Email us at thehalls@bully4.us

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